Cultural Pathways 2011

Today was our last day in Prague (sadface), so instead of sleeping in we decided to make the most of it. We headed out around the city for some last minute shopping and sightseeing. Since the rain stopped today, we took advantage of the nice weather and rented a couple of paddle boats on the river. The sun was out and we had a nice relaxing hour floating around the Vltava. Some of the others took the last day to buy souvenirs and take a relaxing walk around Prague for the last time. After lunch many of the group went on a river cruise. While we sailed alongthe river we were able to enjoy the city from yet another point of view. This time we could look past the Communism, both World Wars and a variety of other empires to partake in the visual history unfolding before our eyes.

Sometimes along our trip we would get cAught up in one moment or one phase but with the blending of different architectures the final picture came together like the paitings in the contemporary museum. Beautiful, collaborative, and all substantial for the development of the people. It gas become apparent to us that history is both factual and subjective. While the winner writes the history books te people are the ones who have the power to confirm or deny based on their spirit. From the resilience of the Polish to the fusion of the Hungarians to the irony of the Czechs these people are more than the atrocities and victories they’ve lived through, they are a nation of individuals united by their utter desire to preserver.

For our last dinner together we went to a traditional czech restaurant and enjoyed the food and even more the folk dancing.  The musicians and dancers entertained us for a while with the traditional dances and then asked for some willing participants. Many of the group joined in.

We ended our evening at Mcdonalds, trying to get ourselves back into American culture.  We decided on awards for eachother and came up with more than 75 different “most likely to’s.”  Saying goodbye to everyone was harder than we all expected after a great three weeks together.  We are all so grateful to Dr. Jones for planning this trip and selecting all of us to go.

Things we will miss:
-Being in EUROPE
-awesome public transportation
-our amazing traveling buddies!
Things we’re excite to get back to:
-free water, bathrooms, and ketchup
-air conditioning
-friends and families
-TCU!

Today we got up bright and early yet again and ventured 3 hours away to Krumlov, a quaint little village in the Czech countryside.  The narrow streets and little, tightly packed buildings created an atmosphere similar to a medieval town. We toured the castle that the city is built around and saw how nice it would be to live as royalty. My favorite part was how the outside walls were painted to look 3 dimensional. After the castle tour, we were free to enjoy the city for ourselves. I wish we had more time to enjoy all that it had to offer but we tried to make the most of it. The shops were mostly tourist traps but they had some interesting things, including jewelry made from meteors. A few of us had encounters with some very outgoing men as well (shout out to Bailey).  After another 3 hour bus ride back to Prague, we went to an Italian restaurant for dinner and discussed our favorite things and experiences from the trip. It is hard to believe this adventure is almost over but I think most everyone misses home and is ready to return to the land of free refills and condiments.  I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to come to this part of the world. Not only is it a great place with tons of history, but I do not think I would have ever come without the honors college at TCU organizing it. It is not the usual tourist destination, but I’m very happy I decided to come. From auschwitz to Margaret island to a less than luxurious ride on a sleeper train, this experience has been one i will never forget. I would like to thank the whole group, especially Dr. Jones, for making this a great experience. I wish everyone safe travels as we head our separate ways soon and I will see all of you in about a month.

PS- sorry I’m a little late…I kind of forgot it was my turn to blog. And I do not have a camera cord so I can’t upload pictures. Please forgive me 

We woke up this morning to, you guessed it, more rain. So, what better way to spend the day than at the museums of Prague? We were given a variety of options which ranged from interior design to art to a technical museum. While others chose to start with the interior design museum, or even a local monastery, I chose to visit the National Technical Museum in the morning.

The technical museum was a sprawling 4-story exhibit. There were cars, planes, trains, helicopters, motorcycles, bikes, and hot air balloons (I think that covers everything) from the 18th century all the way up to to the present day. We admired the old school transportation and enjoyed learning about the changes in technology and style over the years. For example, did you know that the first motorcycles looked exactly like bikes and had pedals? There’s your fun fact for the day.

View from the 2nd floor

Woah.

After the technical museum, we braved the rain and headed over to the contemporary art museum. To say the least, the museum was huge, and we could have easily spent the entire day there. Although we only saw a fraction of the museum, we were able to admire works from artists such as Picasso, Monet, and van Gogh. Being a modern art museum, however, there was also plenty of art that was, well, very modern. Another type of art that we saw was the Czech “slapstick cartoon.” A reaction to communism, the art was extremely vulgar and absurd. However, after learning about the history of communism in the Czech Republic yesterday, the art, in an odd way, made sense. The style is obviously critical of mass society and even survival, and was a creative outlet during a time of oppression. 

It’s art???

My favorite 

After we had all the fine art we could handle in one afternoon, we headed to grab some lunch. We found a cafe called Bohemian Bagel that served breakfast all day, and we chowed down on some delicious pancakes, eggs and bacon, a first for the entire trip. All were served in huge portions, and, needless to say, it was a memorable meal.

Running short on time, we decided to head back to the hotel and clean up/ get spiffy for the evening. Dr. Jones arranged another dinner with some University students in Prague, and we enjoyed learning firsthand about their thoughts on America, life in Prague, and their recommendations on what to do with the rest of our time in the city. One of the students had even visited Texas before!

Slightly rushed, we finished our meal and made our way to the classical music concert. As soon as the musicians walked on stage wearing costumes, I realized that the concert would be much different than I expected. Although the concert was quick (about an hour), I enjoyed hearing Mozart’s pieces performed, and the setting of the beautiful and ornate Estate Theater added to the experience.

At the concert

It seems that music plays a large role in Czech culture. From the vibrant music constantly being played on Charles Bridge to the concerts every night on the river, its influence is evident. Our tour guide, Hannah, even explained that every student learns to play an instrument as an extracurricular activity while in school. Since music can be such a source of national pride, heritage, and identity, I can only wonder what the Czech people feel as they play the pieces of the composers of the same nationality. 

We’re continuing to enjoy the our time here in Prague, and we’re looking forward to a day outside of the city tomorrow. 

So until next time, one love, one swagg, one hustle (it’s on the Lennon wall…).

—Thomas 

Rain, rain, go away….come again inevitably when our group begins to tour on another day. 

Alright, so I may have improvised the second part. The cold, wet weather found it’s way to Prague today as Cultural Pathways took on Day 17 (I think). 

The day started off with a chilly tour of some of the communist landmarks around the city. One of the big themes of the morning was how communism played out in the Czech Republic. While it had a grasp on Hungary and Poland, communism seemed much more intense in Czech. Everything was regulated. So regulated in fact, that our lovely guide, Hannah, said that people were insecure after the revolution because they had to decide things for themselves for the first time. It was enlightening to see how much different communism was in the three different countries. 

After a stroll through the Communism Museum, the group headed up to the Prague Castle. From the 13th century to the 20th century, the Castle offered a variety of architecture and history. 

As the group split up, groups were able to enjoy the downpour in whatever way they saw fit. Some found their way to the Chocolate Museum of Prague and enjoyed some tasty treats, while others enjoyed the warm, dry climate of a local cafe. Finally, a group of brave (or crazy) students took an hour Segway tour of Prague. As a reward for their dedication, their guide offered them a free night tour of the city later in the week. Let’s cross our fingers for nicer weather. 

We enjoyed a great American meal at the Prague Hard Rock Cafe for dinner. It was refreshing to get a break from some of the Eastern European cuisine. A huge shout out goes to the kind people of the Hard Rock Cafe for unlimited refills (with ice) and all the ketchup we could have asked for!

Ending the day with a performance gave many of the students a chance to experience something that might have been new for them, a BlackLight Theater. With no words spoken, it was a mix between a play and dance performance. The only downside to the performance was that our very own Amy did not get pulled up on stage. She missed it by about two people.

Sweet souvenir of the day: Several of the intellectuals in our group found some rulers at the Communism Museum. These rulers included major historical events of the last 2000 years. Now, they have the ability to carry all that history around in their pockets. Sounds like a great Honors College representation to me. 

I discovered a funny fact about Europeans today. When clapping, eventually, it will become synchronized. I have noticed it several times, but I interviewed one of our very own Europeans (the French one) and found out that it is not a strange occurrence for audience response to be unified. For some reason, I was blown away by this small phenomenon. I found myself trying to clap on the off-beats just to have a bit of individualism. 

That’s all from Prague for now!

Casie

The students of TCU Honors College have learnt a very important skill on this trip which was perfected today.

That is, of course, to fall asleep at anywhere, at any time, under any circumstances.

Our new friend, John Black, woke us up right before 6 a.m so we could get off the sleeper train from Budapest to Prague. We bumbled out of the train cars and dragged ourselves over to the hotel which was literally a five minute walk from the station. Since we have been on this trip, a “five minute walk” can mean anything from an American five minute walk (which can be as little as two or three minutes) or it can mean a Polish five minute walk which can be anywhere upwards of fifteen minutes over cobble stones, around corners, with heavy suitcases in tow. We tumbled into the hotel and after we sleepily scarfed down breakfast, nearly everyone took an hour or longer nap.

Lucy and Hannah are our tour guides taking care of us in Prague and Hannah is not only very knowledgable but she gives us a taste of the local flavor here. Exploring Old Town and New Town on foot, we discovered the National Gallery, the Astronomical Clock, the  St. Charles Bridge, and the Petrin Hill among the numerous sights that we saw. There doesn’t seem to much personal space in a city this size whether it is because of all the tourists crowding together trying to get the best angle for their picture or if it is because Pragians don’t believe in it. At least most people seem to be wearing strong enough deodrant.

During the afternoon, we split into groups and some people went to the John Lennon Wall located right outside the French Embassy while others went to a cafe with cubist designs for lunch with shopping for garnets, a Czech Republic specialty, afterwards.

Dinner was at 6 and consisted of Beef Sirloin with vegetables and bacon dumplings in a setting consisting of every dead animal imaginable stuffed and stuck on the wall. Shortly after, about half the group attended the National Marionette Theatre which was an interesting an experience. I understand that it is an art form that the Czech people are trying to preserve but I feel like the people controlling the marionettes were playing for cheap jokes. Just like in Ancient Greece after there was a serious play there was a ten minute fun play filled with cheap gags and sexual innuendo, I feel like this version of Don Giovanni performed at the marionette theatre lacked a sense of high theatre and drama that I would have expected in a performance of an opera by Mozart. 

Prague seems to be many people’s favorite city so far. As in past cities we have visited, Czech people don’t tend to smile which apparently stems from the Communist era when a person would be investigated if they look too happy. Also, the people here are supposed to be very religious except that they keep it very private and to themselves. The public transport officers here are even more thorough than in Budapest with tickets being checked getting on to the tram, on the tram, and getting off the tram. The people of Prague still seem to be recovering from the Communism that was forced upon them by Stalin. Czechoslovakia only split into Slovakia and the Czech Republic in 1993 so there is also that to keep in mind when thinking about how a Czech person has come to be in their ideas and attitudes.

Many people are very glad to be in the last city as the end is in sight and people want to see their families again. The land of free refills, more than three cubes of ice in a drink, and air conditioning that blasts arctic air is nearly within our grasp but I feel that although Prauge is a very tourist friendly and English is spoken nearly everywhere, we still have a lot to learn before we board our planes back home.

      Where to begin? I guess with what I learned today that stuck out to me the most - the fact that the elderly here in Budapest have an unfathomable amount of confidence in their body image. Odd? perhaps. True? Very much so! I guess I should explain myself better. 

     About half of the group today went to one of the locals’ favorites, the Hungarian baths. The baths are comprised of a massive building with about 15-20 baths (pools) inside and another 3 larger ones outside in the courtyard. All the baths vary in temperature (and rules i.e. male vs female, clothing vs nude, racing vs therapeutic, swim cap vs well, no swim cap). Since there isn’t really the concept of a backyard pool in Hungary, everyone goes to the baths in their free time, especially the elderly in their bikinis and speedos. Yes, read that for what it is. Ergo, the elderly here have confidence.  

     We all enjoyed ourselves very much at the baths relaxing in the warm baths outside together and very glad we got to experience a more local destination after all of our tourist visits. And because the manager knew we were “the americans” - she ever gave us somewhat of a VIP treatment! 

     The afternoon was comprised of a quick tour of the parliament building and lots of interesting statistics. Did you know that the youngest member of the Hungarian Parliament is only 23 years old while the eldest is 90? Furthermore, the 23 year old member is a female who just happens to currently be pregnant. Being that I am merely only 3 years away from being 23, I can’t even fathom being a member of parliament at that age!!! I wish I could meet her and just pick her brain about her life! 

  Quick dinner where we finally got free refills on water for the first time since we’ve been here (that was a big deal) haha! And then it was train time. And what a pleasant surprise it was!! In comparison to our last train experience, this was a mansion! 2 people per cabin with air conditioning plus a shower, sink, and toilet!  Living large. The night was appropriately ended with a dance party on the train. 

-tori

May I just start off by saying Buda is Budaful =). But seriously.  There was a long tour of both the original and newer parts of Buda, the original part being my favorite.  Every day I am surprised over and over again at how relaxed the government and rules of Eastern Europe are.  For instance, today we walked past a parliament building where our tour guide informed us the president works.  When the group asked where the guards were, she simply answered, “I think they took a holiday”.  So, no, there was no one on guard of the president…just food for thought.

There were breathtaking views from the top of the city.  We got an aerial perspective of the Chain Bridge (a massive destination) which we got to walk across earlier this morning. There were also a few jumping pictures taken, and poses sitting on the top of some high walls which made Donna VERY nervous.  Daily impression of Donna:  ”I can’t watch, y’all are making me so nervous.  (click, click, click with her camera).  Seriously, don’t fall off that wall”.  Gotta love Donna! =)

After Buda, there was some hot transportation to Margaret Island, a personal fave of mine since this trip started.  There may or may not have been an ‘accident’ on those four-person carriage bikes.  Yikes.  To be perfectly fair though, the lady whose wrist got hit was being QUITE dramatic…though, it did give me the chance to practice my nursing skills before the ambulance came.  Let’s just leave it at that.  Lots of free-spinning, tree-rubbing, and panicking later (because let’s be real, I WOULD end up with the broken bike), we were back on solid ground and our tour guides were much happier since they got to be rid of us.  Despite the aforementioned casualties, the tour was neat in the fact that it integrated history, poetry, and architecture without being overpowering or boring.  Where else do tour guides read you love poems?  Legitimately.

Margaret Island was also Budaful…so beatiful that I took 400 pictures of Ashley dancing.  And go sports mode!  Don’t worry, they won’t ALL be posted online…maybe. The fields of flowers and white benches were just so cute; I couldn’t help myself.

Back past the bridge and off to dinner for traditional Hungarian food—just kidding, it was Italian night followed by a special surprise from Dr. Watson, a classical music concert at Saint Stephen’s Basilica.  Thanks Dr. Watson!  There is something to be said about the architecture of Saint Stephen’s all lit up at night.  It is already amazing during the day, but at night, it glows against a dark sky.  The spires seem never-ending and the inside is unbelievable.  Especially as a backdrop for an orchestra.  And then when the lights came on inside, it amazed me even more. The music was easy on the ears and besides the one face the operetta singer decided to throw in during her solo, it was also very culturally enriching.  One last stop got us rose-shaped ice cream before we headed back to the hotel.  Or, if you’re a socker fanatic like Sally, to a TV showing the game.  Go USA!

-Alex Heath

This morning started off much like one in Warsaw - with a game, this time called Beyond Budapest. Our tour guide was lively, and we set off to explore one of the lesser known areas of the capital with licorice candy and chocolate in hand.

On the way we stepped into a bit of culture shock - literally. Twice a year in Budapest citizens are allowed to throw any and all trash into the streets, where it will be picked up over the next day or so by city trash workers (who, apparently, don’t mind:)

After the game a few other student and I headed back over to the Great Market Hall to explore and shop for souveniers. It was amazing! It reminded me a lot of a farmers’ market, only this one was on the scale of Walmart and included cafes and merchants selling their household wares on the second floor above rows of fresh fruits and vegetables, bread and butchers’s shops.

Unfortunately, because it was Saturday the market closed at three o’clock. Alex F. and I split off and went for a snack of gelato at a very cute (and very pink) confectionary. With Snickers, chocolate, chocolate with chili, and stawberry to tide us over we walked to the Polish National Museum of Ethnography. Given two hours before it closed we only made it through the top floor! The exhibits were mostly in Hungarian, but the attendents were helpful and without too much trouble we identified everything from ancient cornerstones to medieval fashion tips and a rosary depicting a skull and crossbones motif.

For dinner we went to a restaurant called Marxim, a touristy hole in the wall designed to look like an old Communist hangout. We ate pizza with crazy names and on the way back to the hotel made another gelato stop, this time with the whole group. After all that delicious food, I don’t know if I’ll be able to eat for the rest of the trip!

Cheers!

~Danika

Today, Dr. Jones gave CP2011 the wonderful gift of sleeping in for the first time in two weeks. Needless to say, everyone was quite pleased to be meeting at ten o’clock, rather than nine o’clock. The day began with a metro ride to the Dohany Street Synagogue, garden, and museum. This synagogue was completely

original, in fact, the synagogue survived the war because it was the Gestapo headquarters during WWII.

 

After our very thorough morning tour, CP2011 split into smaller groups until dinner. For lunch my particular group decided to try out a vegetarian café near the synagogue. Our resident vegan was a happy camper with the abundant hummus, falafel, and pita options. And, those of us that joined her had a cheap, and thoroughly enjoyable lunch.

 

Following lunch, most of the groups trekked, ambled, and hobbled up the very steep Gellert Hill where, at the top, a magnificent cityscape is free for all to enjoy. In addition, there is a beautiful monument depicting the freedom of Budapest: a woman standing tall at the tip-top of the hill. Also, on the hill there are plenty of souvenir shops and ice cream stalls awaiting the throngs of tourists who make the hike.

After a quick break, my group headed toward St. Stephen’s Basilica. Completed in 1902, the Church is a marvelous piece of architecture that is a must see in Budapest. I know that the group I happened to be with attempted to decipher the frescos painted on the ceiling. The Church will take any tourist, local, or international aficionado’s breath away, simply by glancing at the alter. In the rear of the church is a smaller chapel where there is a nifty relic and the mummified hand of St. Stephen. Our two token men on the trip found that to be a highlight of the day.

 

A few members of the group walked along the Danube to return to the hotel, this included passing a poignant memorial to Hungarian Jews who fell victim to atrocities committed during the Second World War. While the sun was setting, the skyline was magnificent, yet the Jewish population’s persecution is a beacon throughout the city that will never be dimmed.

Budapest is a mesmerizing city that captures a drastically different aura than either city in Poland. The feeling in this city is more laidback, definitely not as stern as business-oriented Warsaw. The group is looking forward to a wonderful time in Hungary, and to appreciate even more of the local culture in the coming days.

-Dara

Today was one of the longest days of our lives…but in a good way. We arrived at the hotel Marmara in Budapest after surviving our first experience with a sleeper train.  Six people (plus luggage) were crammed into each nearly un-air conditioned car.  It wasn’t pretty, but we made it!  

After freshening up a bit, we made our way to the Great Market Hall where we became certified in Hungarian cooking.  As a group we prepared goulash and crepes, both of which were delicious.  I semi-successfully flipped a pancake, so it was a good experience.  Dr. Jones even got our chef/instructor to show some TCU pride.

 I decided to explore the city for awhile with a few people, and the rest of the group came back to our lovely four-star hotel for a much needed nap.  We wandered through the market hall past vegetable stalls, fruit stands, and tons of Hungarian souvenirs.  It seemed like there were many locals as well as tourists visiting the market.  It took me some time, but I figured out the conversion system from Forints to US Dollars.  One US dollar equals about 190 forints, so at first I had trouble thinking of prices in the thousands as reasonable.   

From the market we wandered down Vaci street, one of the main shopping streets in Budapest.  We found many interesting souvenirs here too, plus some delicious gelato.  We walked across the Liberty Bridge for some great pictures before returning to the hotel to get ready for dinner. 

Here’s where the “folk” mentioned in the title (Thomas’ idea…thanks!!) comes into the picture.  Tonight we got to see a traditional Hungarian performance of folk dancing and song.  None of us knew quite what to expect, but I think we were all impressed.  Personally, this show was one of my favorite parts of the trip so far.  The vibrant costumes and fast-paced music made me feel energetic, even after little sleep and a busy afternoon.  I wish I could dance the way they did, keeping perfect rhythm with the stomping of their boots and celebrating their unique heritage in front of an excited crowd.  

 We ended our longest day with a river cruise dinner, where we met another group from Fort Worth.  They were very supportive of TCU!  Our dinner was a buffet of all-you-can-eat Hungarian cuisine.  I got a little seasick on the boat, so I didn’t eat much.  Everyone seemed to enjoy the meal though.  I spent most of the boat ride on the balcony level, where the cool breeze helped me feel better.  The Budapest skyline is beautiful, by day and especially by night.  I think all of us took more pictures on the boat tonight than we have anywhere else on the trip.  So far, Budapest is an amazing city.  I can’t wait to learn more about it and explore over the next few days!

And finally, goodnight!!

Melissa

So our second day with no history to listen to, a strange occurance since we’ve been going non-stop for the last week and a half. We had a free day to roam around Krakow so we all took the oppertunity to sleep in as long as we could. 10:00 would never be considered sleeping in accept for this trip. Many of the group went to a laundry mat in the morning, and though I didn’t join I heard by many that America should try out this cleaner, less creapier version. The machines were located in the back while the front housed a bar with a wide variety of food and drinks which you could enjoy in a comfy seating arrangement. It got a much better reputation than any I’ve heard of in the US.

 It’s slightly different to blog about this day since we all enjoyed different activities, but one group of us went to the museum of tourture. It could very well have been a rip off set up by the locals, but we enjoyed it. A small, cheap 3 room place with the tourture devices of the medival ages.

Later in the day another group went to an English football pub to watch the USA vs. France semi-final of the Women’s World Cup. There was no one else in the pub watching the game which was a complete change from the earlier trip to Germany where there were people watching games everywhere, I’m talking EVERY bar and even ice cream shops. USA won btw (by the way for any parents following) 3-1. GO TEAM!!

When we met up for dinner many of the girls showed off new purchases of amber jewlery (again, heads up parents). If those who have already blogged about Krakow havn’t mentioned this yet, you could hardly go 50 feet without seeing an amber shop when you were in the main square. We all took advantage of this and I’m not sure if anyone left Poland without some amber to boast of.

The reason this blog is late is because of this next adventure which had no wifi. After dinner we made our way to the train station and hopped on a sleeper car to Budapest. And when I say hopped I really mean, clammered, bumbled, dragged or any other adjective that suggests difficulites and tensions. The compartments were too small, the luggage too big, the temperture WAY too hot, and the tensions too high, but we made it to our destination which I will let the next blogger tell you all about.

peace and blessings, Sally

Today was fabulous. Ashley was right, Auschwitz was a very hard experience yesterday and we all definitely needed an opportunity to just clear our minds. What’s a better way than a trip to the mountains?

We stopped along the way in a quaint town that was just one road. It was adorable. Along the walk through the village an elderly gentleman was sitting on his steps while his cow grazed in his side yard of his wooden cottage. I kid you not it was straight out of a storybook. As I was on the road, I waved and then pointed to my camera. He nodded and I took the picture. Funny, body language is the same in every country. We really aren’t all that different. We are shaped by our experiences and cultures but in the end we are all just humans who understand the need for interaction.

The rest of the day we were in the now booming tourist town of Zakopanem. It was full of stalls of goods and people seeking a day away from the big cities. There were so many people there, and the weather wasn’t even warm. Crazy to think what it must’ve been like on a weekend. We road the tram up the mountain and got to truly enjoy the breathtaking scenery. It’s easy to see why people would fight over such a beautiful country when you’re up in the mountains.

The rest of the day our group split up to hike, shop, and just peek around the country town. We ate dinner at a Polish resteraunt and I can say I had the most food ever on this trip. This place understood veganism. I was so proud. I had potatoe cakes, soup, vegetable kabobs, and a fruit salad. I was in heaven. There is hope!

Tomorrow we have a free day in the city. We’ll keep it coming on our adventures!

 

 

“Please watch your step, stairs are made of salt.” And the wall and the ceiling and the statues and the chandeliers? Yes. We saw a lot of salt today in the Wieliczk Salt Mine…and some of us even tasted some. A few of us brave ones actually licked the walls of the mine, where who knows how many other people (or things) have before. I do not know that I would do it again but how many other people can say the licked salt off the wall 120 meters underground in Poland? Pretty cool story. 

 

I can certainly say that I was very surprised at how vast the salt mine was. There were many long corridors that led to a number of rooms with everything from statues and exhibits for children to chapels and lakes (and apparently dwarfs). I was surprised to see that there is a very immense chapel that is in use today for masses and even weddings.  

 

At the end of our tour, and after an underground lunch (where the food was, not surprisingly, very very salty) we were not about to walk back up the 800 steps. Instead we crammed 9 of us into a dark elevator shaft that was about 1/4 the size of a Clark dorm room while the doorman yelled at us in Polish. Needless to say it was a fun experience and a good lively activity before we made the hour and a half trip to Auschwitz. 

 

Visiting Auschwitz was one of the things I was most looking forward to on this trip. This part of history has always interested me.  But no matter how many books I read about the Holocaust of World War II I do not think anything could have prepared me for what it was like to actually be there…to be standing in the place were more than 1 million people were tortured, starved and murdered. It was a surreal feeling walking under the gate that I had seen in so many books and movies. 

 

 We toured around the old barracks and buildings of Auschwitz I.  Each room had one or two displays, not to make it too overwhelming.  But the real feeling of horror did not hit me until I saw the hair. Knowing was real human hair from the actual prisoners made this experience so much more real.  Each exhibit following was equally as hard to see - mounds of glasses, pots and pans, children’s clothes, suitcases, even artificial limbs.  The shock of seeing piles so large, especially the shoes, and knowing that it was only a fraction of what was collected was a very difficult sight to take in. 

 

I can not possibly put in words everything that I was thinking and feeling.  As I was standing in the gas chamber I had such a different experience than I had ever had when reading about it in a book. You could see scratch marks on the walls and the holes in the ceiling where the gas was let in. Now I was actually able to put myself in the position of the millions of people who had been locked in and knowing they were going to die.  

 

The whole experience was unreal.  It is almost impossible to say what emotion I was feeling.  It was a mix of sadness and anger, but more just a feeling of being completely numb. It was just hard to accept that it was all true. Auschwitz was definitely not the most fun part of the trip so far, but for me it was definitely the most memorable. 

 

On a lighter note we ended the day with a delicious crepe (French accent) dinner. We were typical Americans being loud and sometimes obnoxious…but we a lot of practice with various accent, languages and imitations. Then we ended the night with Thomas getting cussed out by an angry Polish man. Successful night in Krakow J

     Up and ready, we started our day on a road that eventually led us to the magnificent Wawel Castle. We passed by a few churches (including the oldest one of Krakow) and street performances to finally arrive to our main cultural event of the day. Not surprisingly, the Wawel Hill area was filled with tourists, but the visits of the Crown Treasure and Armory and of the Private Apartments in the morning were thrilling. Our tour guide introduced us to many stories and legends that made the visits quite entertaining. After a relaxing tour, we finished touring the Castle and headed to the Cathedral, that literally blew me away – it was just stunning. After seeing the chapel of John Paul the Second, I realized the importance of his life for the Polish community as we can see his picture in almost every church – I was surprised to learn that the Vatican is even starting to reprimand Poland for putting too much emphasis on him. Sadly, taking pictures was not allowed in the Cathedral, so we decided to climb up one of the towers to see an overview of the city and touch the bell (the legend says that if one touches with the right hand, he or she is going to get married soon, while the left hand brings a wish that will be realized in a year – we’ll see!) and then to crawl down to the crypt of the cathedral (okay I’m exaggerating, there were just stairs). It was personally my favorite visit – rich in history, culture, and yet not too boring.

     On the way down, we decided to go meet the famous dragon in his den under the Wawel Castle by going down a few stairs and ending up in his cave (the dragon strangely looked like Thomas, I’m just saying (: ). After being wooed by an unknown knight, we decided to rest until dinner (so many emotions…. Or simply too much walking/standing up, either way). Polish pizzas for dinner, yay! Once again, we met and spent time with Polish students, this time from Krakow. The conversations ranged from accents to the death penalty, and we had such a good time that some of the group decided to stay longer. After seeing the recent tomb of ex-President Lech Kaczynski and hearing talks of Russian conspiracy, I was curious to see how the Polish youth thought about the crash, and also how they explained that all the officials were on the very same plane – not the safest way to travel. Jakub (nicknamed Kuba) explained me that for him, the idea of a conspiracy was unrealistic, and that the crash was caused by a multitude of mistakes coming from the top. I was also impressed by the gigantic amount of culture our guests had, one talking up to five languages, and most of them having traveled abroad repeatedly. It can be challenging (especially when one knows more about your country’s politics than you) yet it was simply mind-awakening and entertaining.

Hey guys! Sorry I’m a day late; I was too busy soaking up the warm sun in Krakow! The weather is so nice – a good change from the rain in Warsaw.

Unlike Warsaw, the buildings in Krakow have retained their antiquity and quaintness with their Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It’s a beautiful city and I can really understand why 8 million tourists visited Krakow last year, while only 700,000 citizens occupy it.

Today (July 9), Anna (our tour guide) started us off with a beautiful walk through the park to St. Florian’s gate, which is the main entrance to the Main City Square (Rynek Glowny) of Krakow. St. Florian is one of the patron saints of Poland. Right past the gate is a McDonald’s with a 14^th century cellar-basement. How cool is that?!

One of the things that makes Krakow such a great place is its 150 churches, all of them still in use with active parishes. We have spent a lot of time already touring the churches and synagogues here, and for me the most memorable one so far has been St. Mary’s Catholic Church. Its beauty is so overwhelming with its high vaulted ceilings – painted blue with gold stars – and countless stained glass windows.

The ginormous Gothic altarpiece takes up most of the cathedral’s nave. Thankfully, we were able to catch a sneak peek of a wedding in the church later in the day. I don’t even want to know how fabulous the reception was..

Early the same day we visited a medieval museum based underneath the shops in Market Square which did a great job of using advanced technology to take us back into the time period. We saw tons of ancient artifacts and weapons and real cobblestone architecture from the 12^th century.

After the museum, we were getting low on energy. What better place to go than E. Wedel Café, a.k.a. chocolate heaven?! After wolfing down some latte and cinnamon flavored truffles with some white drinking chocolate, we visited St. Mary’s, then shopped for a little bit. The Main City Square was beautiful and spacious – lined on all four sides with not too tall Baroque buildings, shops, churches and a statue that doubled as a fountain in the middle. We ate lunch in a 14^th century cellar (not the McDonalds basement), consisting of yummy pizza and delicious tiramisu! (Mom, sorry you missed out J).

 

After lunch, Anna took us on a tour of Jagellonian University, the oldest university in Krakow and the second oldest in Europe (Prague has the oldest). There are about 60,000 students enrolled at the school and some famous alumni including Nicholas Copernicus (who discovered that the world rotated around the sun rather than the other way around) and Pope John Paul II, who was born in Krakow. I kept wondering what it would be like to go to school with marble floors, intricately carved wooden desks and gold ceilings, or to have lunch in a courtyard surrounded by a hundred marble columns.

After the tour of the university, we had some free time. First thought: souvenir shopping! Right in the middle of the square is Cloth Hall, a semi-indoor corridor lined with shops. We saw our fair share of amber jewelry (the stone Poland is most famous for), wine glasses and glass mugs, fur shoes and blankets, wall décor and carved wood.

After spending more zloty than I would’ve liked to here, we went to dinner at a traditional Polish restaurant. My meal was very traditional (with sauerkraut and a combination of meat and sausage). I thought it was good until I had some of Dr. Jones’ wiener schnitzel – yes please! It was such a treat to have dinner with two American missionaries, a married couple from Texas with two young daughters enrolled in a Polish school. I was happy to hear that they love Poland and agree that the people are very helpful and kind, and the food is always yummy. After finishing up and saying goodbye, a few of us made our way to a “live music club” called Alchemia. After a few seconds inside, we knew it wasn’t a music club, but more like a grunge pub. Don’t worry though - we made the most of it with good conversation and laughs despite the creepy paintings on the walls and creaky wooden floors J . Nonetheless, today was a GREAT day and I LOVE Krakow more with each day we spend here! Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoy the rest! J goodnight everyone